a lesson in art history: part three

MUSEE D'ORSAY:

today we began our tour of the museum that houses most of the impressionistic paintings (late 1800s-early 1900's) and sculptures and artwork. i have been extremely excited about this museum because i've known that i would be seeing some of my favorites (VanGogh, Monet, etc.) i have several friends who have already been to Paris and have had the opportunity to experience this museum, and they have told me that i had to go for myself(being that my oil landscape style is influenced by many of the impressionistic masters). but honestly, there's nothing or noone who could've prepared me enough for what i was able to see today.

but i'm jumping ahead a bit. today was a lesson in patience. okay, so we walked along the River Seine from our hotel to get to the museum. then we stood in a very long snaking line outside to get inside and go thru a security checkpoint. this took quite awhile. then we stood in another line to purchase our tickets. after reading the map we decided to start viewing the museum from the top floor down (there are 3 main floors of rooms). so we climbed stairs and took several escalators to get to the top. then we began our meandering through room after room of beautiful and telling impressionistic paintings...some by Toulouse LaTrec, some by Renoir, Manet, Pisarro, Gaugin, Matisse, sculptures by Rodin & Claudel. We even came upon a lady with easle set up painting (like the guy we saw yesterday in the Louvre). And then the excitement began...

No...not the Van Gogh's & Monet's yet...

an alarm went off. a very loud alarm. then an announcement came over the PA system in French. then it was translated in English. everyone was to exit the entire building as shown by the security guards, due to some "technical difficulty". and then the alarm resumed. so thousands and thousands of people (including myself and my parents) were herded through rooms, down stairs, through more rooms, down more stairs...until we were all standing safely outside the building on the sidewalk. thousands of people. surprisingly enough (and with as many diverse cultures represented by the numerous visitors) no one panicked or pushed. once outside we waited in groupings. no one ever told us what had really was going on and why we had to exit. did someone try to steal a painting? was there a fire somewhere in the building? perhaps there was a bomb threat? no info. no police. no fire brigade. no bombsquad. moments later (after everyone was out and standing about) we were all told we could go back in...but we could only do this thru ONE door...around the side of the building (because the new visitors: people who had not paid for tickets yet: were using the main entrance). we all had to go thru security checks again. so this took forever with an even larger line snaking along. finally when we were back inside, we resumed our original plan and we headed back up all the stairs and escalators to get back to the rooms on the top floor where we left off. absolutely crazy! but thru it all, i could only laugh...hey, why not? none of the wait mattered... i'm in Paris! i'm blessed!

so once we got back to where we left off we continued on and you know what...the wait was worth it! there was an entire room of VanGogh's. there was an entire room of Monet's. there was an entire room of Cezanne's. there was an entire room of Degas. it just kept going...impressionistic master after impressionistic master. i was in impressionistic heaven!

there was one moment where all i could do was stand still in middle of the Monet room and stare with my mouth wide open. as i gazed upon one of his water lily paintings (next to his Giverny and also his bridge paintings) i was stuck in place. i couldn't move. there's no way i can describe how i felt at that moment. seeing the original paintings like that...it was breathtaking.

i have spent years studying them, painting them, adoring them...i had tears in my eyes. i was seeing originals...here in Paris...these painters had been here, lived here, hung out together here.

i did sit down and attempt a couple of sketches. but honestly, i was still so blown away that my hands wouldn't connect with my brain.

well, needless to say we're going to go back to the museum tomorrow to try and finish seeing what we can.

a lesson in art history: part two

THE LOUVRE:

today we did our second day through the Louvre. we took on the second half of the museum. and i must confess, if it were a contest to see who could see it all at once...I'd lose. there is no possible way. you'd need a whole week! we got through about a 1/2 of the 1/2 we didn't see last time. you might ask, why it took so long? there seems to be no end to the rooms that are rooms within rooms. steps that you think lead out, actually lead to another room. it's a maze of corridors and steps and rooms. and each room has an endless collection of absolutely beautiful artwork. i'm telling you...it's crazy overwhelming! they give you a map of the 4 floors but i think you need a university degree in how to get out.

anyways, as i said in a previous post, they allow people to sketch and paint and take photos. you can see most people sitting on benches or on steps with sketch pads in hand doing their best to capture a quick likeness of a favored painting or sculpture. today we happened upon an artist who brought his whole studio with him to paint. as you can see in the photo...he wasn't afraid to bring a large easle and all his paints and supplies. and there he went to work recreating a masterpiece. unbelievable!

okay, this American is still in shock. i have had security guards practically acost me for chewing gum in a local small city art museum in the States...and here in the most famous art museum in the world with the most priceless paintings of all time...one can just walk right up to a masterpiece and only inches away, pull out supplies and start slapping paint on a canvas. inconceivable!

i love Paris!

food, language, and traffic

FOOD:

i am enjoying the food i've been able to eat here in Paris. as i mentioned in an earlier post, i've had the chance to sample a variety of crepes. there are crepe shops and stands all over the city where you can get just about anything inside of them, from cheese to meats, to veg, to chocolate, to fruits. my favorite is the cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese ones. those of you who know how i love to hold things in my hands to eat (like the chicken pita at the Western Idaho State Fair & the Boise Art in the Park) can know that I am truly enjoying eating crepes! they're like a French burrito/pita/wrap thingy.

I've also been enjoying the bread. Baguettes (long bread that is used with sandwiches), croissantes (buttery flakey layered bread rolls things), and the numerous types of other breads that you can get from the bakery shops.

Oh...and the cheese! Fromage! So many kinds and oh so good! I'm a cheese lover already...and the cheese here is fantastic! mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

LANGUAGE:

Okay, I don't speak French. I've never taken French. And I certainly don't have a French accent of any kind. So before making this trip I was a little concerned as to how things were going to work out here...with me not knowing the language. So with my Rick Steves French phrase book in hand and a smile on my face...I am trying to get by. And my friends who have been to Paris before are correct...if you try to speak the language the people are really friendly and will help you out. Most people do speak English...and those who don't will find someone who does. I've even had a few passerbys stop to translate for me and the person I'm trying to talk to. Very friendly. I'm actually enjoying the experience.

When leaving the hotel I'm to give the concierge my room keycard and then when I return I need to pick it up. Well, he has been testing my French by playing a game with me...he makes me ask for it in French and he won't give it to me until I get it right. I've got BONJOUR (hello) and MERCI (thankyou) down quite well...but it took me a couple of days to pronounce the #65 in French. We have had quite a good time laughing about it.

TRAFFIC:

I would never want to try to drive in Paris. Paris is a very busy city. OH MY GOODNESS! They drive so crazy! Large trucks, vans, buses, cars, tiny cars, scooters, motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians...they all seem to think they have the right of way and they take it at anytime anywhere. It's chaos! Especially around the huge intersection roundabouts. It's almost like a free for all. And everyone drives so fast too.

Oh...okay, here's one for nostalgia sake: so in the UK they no longer have the "nee-naw" sound to their sirens...but here in Paris it is alive and well. At any given time you hear a police car or van or an ambulance "nee-nawing" through the streets. It's very European! and it's a welcomed sound to my American ears.

being an artist

a friend of mine asked me years ago why I had never been to Paris...and honestly I couldn't give a reasonable answer. that same friend (who has been to Paris) convinced me, that as an artist I really should come to Paris.

so this (my first trip to Paris) has been an incredible adventure of allowing myself to truly be an artist in the city of artists. it's like I'm in a dream or a movie or a book. and in a way, I guess I am...I'm writing my own story.

one of the most surreal things for me to experience here in Paris is to be able to sit and paint in a city that is so famous for artists.

so far i have painted sitting on the steps of the Arch De Triumphe, sitting in the halls of the Louvre, and sitting in the square at Notre Dame.

just about anywhere you go, you can see vendors selling prints of Paris sketches and paintings, you can see artists with their easles painting the buildings nearby, and you can see students sitting on just about anything sketching in their notebooks. even the streets and bridges are lined with artists and musicians, performers and poets having a go at entertaining the passerby.

Paris is truly a beautiful place for an artist to practice their work. I am truly blessed to be here.

a lesson in art history: part one

The Louvre:

Today we had our first day of touring the Louvre. I'm absolutely speechless. I have no idea how many ancient Greek and Roman sculptures, how many rooms that go and on forever filled with historical artwork, how many Italian and Renaissance paintings, how much marble and gold...that I got to see today...I'm absolutely overwhelmed.

Being an artist, I found myself with my mouth gaped open as I turned each corner and entered each room. I was told, by many friends who have already been to Paris, that the Louvre was huge and that I would love it...but there's just no way to be prepared for what it is really like.

I was very surprised when I found out that I could take photos throughout the museum. They have signs up everywhere that say no cameras but thousands of people were snapping pictures and filming video...and the museum security in each room allowed it. So I figured...okay, here's my chance to document my experience in the Louvre.

Also, they allow people to bring in art supplies and sketch and paint. So I sat myself down in front of a rather large painting of St. Michael slaying the devil by Raphael and took my time sketching (surrounded by many other artists doing the same).

The place is so huge...we only got about 1/2 way thru the place. We'll return again this week for a go at the other 1/2. And then we also want to walk the beautiful landscaped gardens nearby. But...for today, my feet are tired.

I am in Paris!

Bon Jour!

Oui...I am in Paris. It is quite surreal to be here. But here I am standing in front of the Eiffel Tower.

Traveling:

I have to say that this has been one of the easiest trips that I've flown overseas. Those of you who know me know that I typically get stopped at security somewhere along the way to be searched (for whatever reason they seem to flag me or something). But this time was smooth sailing for me. In fact the only security I went thru was initially leaving Boise. And then once we arrived in Paris they didn't even stamp our passports at immigration or take our info cards (we had to ask if they would stamp our passports as a souvenir!)

So we had a flight from Boise to Minneapolis and then we picked up our international flight to Paris. We actually arrived an hour early in Paris. BUT I think the most difficult thing about the 2day-span of traveling to Europe was maneuvering thru Charles DeGaulle airport in Paris. I think we walked the entire airport to get to the actual sortie (exit). Once we found our way thru the maze of corridors in the airport, we had to stand in a very long queue at immigration and then also at the train ticket counter (to purchase our one-way tickets into the city on the Metro). Then we took the Metro train into Paris. I think we figured it to be a total of about 3 hours from landing to setting foot at the door of our hotel in the Latin district at Saint Michel.

Day ONE in Paris:

After finding our hotel we were a bit early for checkin, so we were able to leave our backpacks there and go tour about a bit to familiarize ourselves with where we were staying. The street we are on (Rue de Huchette) is in the Latin district of the city (the place where students and artists and poets hangout). The hotel we're staying at (Hotel du Mont Blanc) is famous for having Hemingway stay there. The cobblestone street is lined with tourist shops, crepe shops, cafes, bars, and above them all are residences. It's an idealic scene as just around the corner is the Seine River...and we are right across from Cathedral de Notre Dame. And I found this internet cafe close by (huge plus for me) so I can keep up on this blog.

We took some time touring through Notre Dame. It is so beautiful! OH MY GOODNESS! They had choir music playing as we walked around (utilizing a handheld audio tour device) gazing at the statues, the paintings, the stained glass, and the beauty of it all. I sat down for a bit and sketched some of the arches on the ceiling. Magnificent! The cathedral is still in use and has 4 services a day. We may take in a service one day this week to experience it fully.

We also took a bus tour to get a view of the entire city. I highly recommend these sorts of tours when visiting any large foreign city...it's worth the money you pay. You typically get unlimited use (hop on hop off) for either 24 hours or 2 days in a row. So we usually go round the whole city the first day and then on the second day go back to sites we want to see more in depth utilizing the bus for transportation. This is a great tactic if some of the sites you want to see are somewhat farther away than others.

Oh...and I got my first taste of the French crepe. Fantastic! I love them! They have crepe shops where they make them right in front of you. You can get them with just about anything in them. And they roll them up and put them in paper and hand them to you, so you can walk around and eat...and they're real cheap too.

After walking around for most of the day and shopping at the street vendor stalls we came back to our hotel and enjoyed a good night sleep (after watching some French television...I think I watched the French version of CSI, they call theirs RIS...don't ask me what it stands for, I don't know...but it was very much like our forensic dramas in the US....all in French).

Day Two in Paris:

Today, we had a leisurely morning. We strolled out into the streets and purchased our coffees and croissants and then hopped on the tour bus once again. We made our way to the Arc De Triumphe and spent some time sitting in the middle of the huge round about that it sits on and sketched. Then we got back on the bus and made our way to the Eiffel Tower. This is where my time here so far became very surreal. I found myself sitting on the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower, eating a baguette with fromage (cheese), people watching, and painting. This is crazy!

After several hours of this idealic surrealness, we got back on the bus and made our way back to our neighborhood near Notre Dame, where we sat ourselves down a the window of Cafe Panis and sipped our coffees while we watched the people and traffic go by on the street.

Before this trip I was a bit concerned as to if I would be able to get by with the difference in language. I don't speak French and I've only ever traveled to English speaking countries in Europe. But I must say that my friends were right when they advised me to start out being friendly and try some words...the people here are just as friendly and they do usually speak English and will help the conversation if you at least try. I've only run into one time where the shop worker didn't speak English...but he quickly found another shop worker who spoke just a few words of English. We both gingerly made our way thru the conversation...it was actually somewhat comical as we both kept smiling and nodding and making hand gestures to try to understand each other. Eventually it worked out! And I most thankfully and happily smiled and said "Merci!"

Tomorrow we start our 2 day tour of the Louvre.

Then we'll do a 2 day tour of the Musee De Orsay.

And then who knows...it's an adventure!

I'm ready to be immersed in ART!

Until the next time...Au revoir!

my pack is packed...i think

i think i'm all packed.

this is my 5th trip to Europe in 9 years...and my 3rd trip taking only what i can fit on my back. i'm a fan of the Seattle-based travel guide, Rick Steves, who has dedicated his life to backpacking around Europe and teaching people (like you and me) how to do the same. i own one of his carry-on size backpacks (it is not the backpack shown in the picture) along with many other items of travel gear and guidebooks and maps that he sells. and i have taken some of his travel classes to learn more about the how-to's when it comes to traveling in Europe. it is with great pleasure that i pack and repack and once again repack the pack in order to see if i can fit what i need to take with me into it in some new and compact way that will allow for comfort & ease (and still be considered a carry-on). with each trip i learn something new and figure out something else i can do without while i travel. there are several tips to follow when trying to stuff clothes into a backpack: you can roll your clothes tightly. you can make the most of every bit of space available for something to fit into (like a puzzle). you can utilize net packing cubes for a compact way of seperating. you can use the plastic ziplock type vacuum seal bags. or you can just stuff the clothes in. it all depends. i recently had a conversation with a friend who confessed that when traveling, their bag starts out all neat and tidy with everything having it's place and then by the end of the trip it's a mad scramble to throw it in and get it all in some orderly fashion so it will make it on the plane...somehow. i laughed at this because packing is a common issue for all of us whether we're traveling to a nearby city or state or traveling to a country overseas. everyone has their preferred way to pack and with the post 9-11 stricter flying regulations & security procedures, packing for a trip has almost become a new Olympic sport.

overwhelming pool of creative inspiration

i'm looking forward to painting while in Europe. i'm taking my tiny travel watercolor set and my wee sketchbook and creative journal to document the beautiful and picturesque sights in Paris that i'll find myself experiencing. there is something romantic about the thought of sitting at a sidewalk cafe sketching a street scene, or having a go at painting while viewing famous art in a museum. i know i'm not the first artist to do this...but i look forward to being like a sponge soaking up the artistic culture of the city of love. i anticipate an overwhelming pool of creative inspiration to swim in while i'm there. and i pray that it splashes all over me.

reunion soon to board

2 weeks till my departure to Europe & i'm getting quite excited with anticipation of my upcoming travels to Paris & Germany.

this week we've been phoning our friends in Germany to discuss plans for that leg of our trip. it's been 13 years since we've seen them (when they made a trip to the States for a visit) and about 21 years since the initial connection (through an exchange student adventure).

i don't know who is more excited...us or them...but i do know that we're all looking forward to reconnecting. it will require each of us to go beyond our own cultural comfort zones to reach out and embrace each other here and now...this time in their country (not ours).

the reunion will take place after we've spent a week in Paris. we will board a train to Frankfurt where our friends will pick us up at the station. we'll be staying with them in a neighboring town named Bad Vilbel and embarking on day trips out around the west part of Germany. i'm looking forward to a great time spent in friendship and the opportunity to learn and experience their culture and what their life is like.

the countdown continues...

i'm headin to europe this autumn

it's 2008. this is my lucky year to travel.

i spent a month in Ireland this May (exploring and painting around the Republic with artist friends).

and now in late September/early October i am headin to Europe to play in Paris and explore Germany with family and friends. i have to say, "life is good" and i'm living the adventure. i'm having fun!